Sunday, July 19, 2009

Back in the US

I have now left Cambodia and am in Akron, PA for a re-entry orientation. Or disorientation, if you will. My last week or so in Cambodia was fairly busy. I slowly dragged my way through grading all my exams and doing all the final grades. I was less than pleased that grades seemed to be worse this semester than last semester, not encouraging. I packed up my bags and then did a lot of re-adjusting and shifting to make sure that both were just barely under 50lbs.

Traveling through Bangkok was exciting and the trip back to the States was smooth, though very long. This week will be fairly busy and then I'll head home and be very busy as I join the preparations for Tom's (my younger brother) wedding on August 1!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Exam Grading

I have now finished all teaching and exam giving and am left with exam grading. Though generally speaking it's not very fun and I hate it, it does have redeeming moments.

The writing section for Year 1 instructed them to write one paragraph about a festival, or national holiday, in Cambodia giving various details about the event.

This is one correct response that I received from one of my top students.

"The festival that I've participated is Water Festival. This festival is celebrated for three days every year. We celebrate this festival in order to remind about the marine because in the past the marine fought so hard with the enemy to protect the country." (She is describing a historic battle that was fought along the river). "I participated this festival last year. I went to the river side to see the boat racing with my friends. It was really fun. I'll go again this year and I think it will be fun like last year."
Wonderful grammar, nice and brief: full credit.

And this is one incorrect response.

"Last week my brother and I had a party at my house. We do this because we want to meet our friends, especially my siblings in my hometown. At first we bough som beaf, pork, some ingredients and about drink we choose ABC beer and tiger beer. during we have foods with beer, we feel drunken, and then we danced to the tone each other. We so happy together in there. and after we had small talk and went to bed. It's our traditional culture. For people, when they have leave for a long time and when they come back, they always do this to meet each other in their places."
Incorrect grammar, incorrect (though entertaining) content: not full credit.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

A Teaching High

Yesterday I was blessed with a very rewarding and encouraging moment. Over the past month I have assigned a small research paper (of sorts) to my higher level students. I have been endlessly talking about not copying, outlines, NOT copying, essay structure, not COPYING, thesis statements and NOT COPYING. I did it all in small steps and I corrected a full draft a couple weeks ago. I then gave them a break of two weeks between that and their final draft, which is due next Monday. I told them that if they wanted me to read it again in the meantime for extra help I would be very willing to help them. Last night I read over the paper of the one girl who took me up on that.

And I was completely floored. I've been working with this girl throughout the process. She chose a topic that seemed straightforward, but starting running into some problems. "Teacher, I have learned that fertilizer use in Cambodia has declined in recent years, but rice production has increased, is this strange?" Yes, this is strange. I looked and found the same information. I tried to advise her as best I could and told her I was more concerned about the paper than the content...blah,blah,blah. When she turned in her rough draft I could see that she was putting in some good information, but it didn't have cohesion. The paper I read last night was an amazing piece of work that made complete sense to me and answered the confusion in a structured and logical way. I made some grammatical marks and will talk with her this morning about two small points that need clarification, but I am fully confident that when she turns it in to me again on Monday she will have a paper that could legitimately be turned in to any college in the U.S.

My joy in this situation is not that I taught her everything she knows, because she came in with a great deal of ability. Rather I am glad that she had a level of ability and motivation that allowed me to really help her in a meaningful way. She is at the level to understand what I am saying and I am at the level where I can understand exactly what she needs to fix. And now her paper is amazing. I am so proud of the work she has put into it, and glad that I was able to help her in a substantial way.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia

This morning I went with a group of MCC staff to witness part of the justice proceedings for the Khmer Rogue crimes. The first and only defendant thus far is Kaing Guek Eav, also known as Duch. He worked as the head of the S-21 prison which incarcerated, tortured and killed more than 15,000 people. Since he was found and captured in the late 90s he has cooperated with authorities and what I saw today showed me how aware he is of his crimes. When asked about the process of issuing orders for torture Duch was quick to admit that he carried out training and supervision. I was interesting also to note the things that he described as outside the guidelines of the allowed torture, things done without his knowledge. He also approved lists of prisoners who were taken outside the city and killed in the now famous "Killing Fields." It was both powerful and somewhat technical testimony. At times the questions dragged on about what kind of food he ate and with whom. But one of the most disturbing things was that when either the prosecutor or Duch were referring to people who were executed they used the word "smash." The Khmer word is very specific to the action, and the English translation was no less brutal.

This trial has been carrying on for several weeks now, maybe months, and does not seem to be ending soon. After five years of complete terror, decades of covert fears, and a seeming eternity of waiting and promises, the Cambodians are now faced with a court proceeding dogged by allegations of corruption, stalls amounting to years, and testimony that, while true, passes off much of the blame to higher level officials who are nowhere to be found.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

You know you're in Cambodia when... part 2

- A student saying "Look at the snake" stops class for a good five minutes and provides sentence material for the rest of the day.

- You name the spiders that live in your bathroom. And cheer when they catch a mosquito.

- You instinctively put all your verbs in the present tense to be understood.

- You name all the geckos Sammy.

- You think that being sick for a week and a half is "not so bad." Since we're talking about dengue fever.

- You have learned that not all chili sauces are created equal. And cried because of it.

- You notice that the black and white puppy you saw earlier this week is now a black and gray puppy.

- You participate in the rain race, against your better judgment.
Rain Race - compound noun, defined as the futile effort to out-run the ominous black clouds. This involves driving faster and more recklessly than normal, constantly debating whether to stop to put your trash-bag raincoat on, being fully blinded by the dust and windstorm that precedes the rain, and finally giving in to the inevitable soaking. Just hope that you have an extra change of clothes wherever it is that you are going.

Friday, May 22, 2009

Long Overdue

Ok, ok. So it's been about five years since the last time I posted. But really now that it's less than two months until I leave, time has almost become irrelevant. But I do want to tell you about my recent vacation to the province of Mondolkiri. In May there is a week long holiday for the King's birthday, so quite a large group of us decided to risk the long van ride out to the middle of nowhere. Thankfully it hadn't been raining much so the road was only terrifying to us but not actually physically impossible, as proved by our driver. We stayed at a very "natural" guesthouse, meaning it wasn't in the town but out a little ways, with all the creatures. I had thought my bug tolerance was pretty high, but I discovered otherwise. I really think it's a size threshold. Anything over a certain size freaks me out. Got a lot of that in the evenings, especially while taking a shower in the bathroom that was really a garden. Then would have to quickly go and huddle under my bug net in a minor state of denial. But during the day it was wonderful to explore the area visiting numerous waterfalls and seeing beautiful rolling, green hills! The highlight was riding elephants. Despite being very uncomfortable it was an extremely unique experience to sit so high up and watch this massive animal slowly lumber through the woods. Occasionally when she wanted a snack for the road she would tear up a near-by sapling to munch along the way. During our lunch break we also got to see the handlers give the elephants "a bath" in the stream. The elephants apparently enjoyed it and were quite willing to lie on their sides to allow easier scrubbing. Upon questioning we learned that our elephant was 60 years old, which is quite a feat considering that the Khmer Rogue tried to kill them all off in the 70's. Glad these survived.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Classes

This week we returned to classes after the two-week break for Cambodian New Year. I was uncertain about attendance after the holiday, but most of my classes had good return. The problem class was, of course, my upper-level class. This was supposed to be the start of student teaching in groups. On Monday afternoon only a quarter of the students even showed up and none of them were the ones who were supposed to teach the lesson that day. On Wednesday there was greater attendance, but still none of the students who were teaching. Being very pressed for time with this chapter I began to teach the lesson. About 20 minutes in the group slowly began to trickle in. When I questioned them whether they were prepared to teach they looked at me with laughs that indicated they had totally forgotten. "But we can go next class, right?" When I informed them that they had to do it now or never they proceeded to stand up and teach a shambles of a class. The students listening had no idea what was going on and were utterly confused. I sat at a desk in the corner silently mourning the disaster that had been my great idea for second semester. Worse was the thought that there are still three more groups scheduled to teach lessons. I am still perversely clinging to the hope that it might be better, maybe the groups will prepare more...we'll see about that.

On the other side of the coin, however, is my Year 1 class. No matter what I make them do, they are always willing and cheerful. Sometimes more so than others but always willing to engage. They really are a saving grace for me and some weeks that's all I have to look forward to. Also a surprise last week: my silent Year 1 class gave me flowers. I don't know who picked them, but when I walked into class there was a bunch of my favorite flower on the desk, which was very pleasant. I think they might be starting to talk a little more too, but that could just be my wishful imagination.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Students

Last week was a time of trying to teach whatever students would show up before the 2 week holiday for Khmer New Year. My second year students had very spotty attendance, but the first year students were much more reliable. On Tuesday I gave a quiz to ensure that they would come and then just hoped for the best on Thursday. Surprisingly I had almost full classes in the morning and afternoon. I went over the quiz, made them play pictionary with vocab words and then I turned it over to them. I asked them what Khmer New Year games they wanted to play. The response was immediate and very rewarding. My afternoon class which never speaks led me out into the hallway where we played a game of dancing in a circle with one person in the middle giving commands that others must follow or else become the person in the middle. We then switched to a game with teams lined up opposite each other trying to carry a branch back to their respective side without being tagged. It was pretty fun for the students that decided to stick around to play.

The morning class was an entirely different story. After dragging them through the required work and trying to muffle the kid that asked about games every other second I finally let them loose. This class went wild and loved every minute of it. The rapport that this class has with each other and with me is something that I have rarely seen. First we played the dancing circle game with everyone getting into it and taking initiative. Then we switched to a team game where one person has their eyes covered while someone from the other team slaps their hand. Then they are supposed to guess who it was. The teams started as boys against girls, but since there obviously weren't enough girls a couple boys had to switch. There was the classic laughter at that point, as well as when one of the boys swung his hips whenever he walked anywhere. The students flirted, they laughed, they cheated, they made fun of others flirting. For a brief moment I forgot I was in a completely different culture and I watched them interact like any college students I have known. They loved that I played the games also (guessed wrong and got called out) but really somewhat ignored me and displayed full confidence in themselves and the people around them. I really loved seeing people who are normally very quiet in class, because of English ability or whatever, come to life chattering and laughing. They spoke a little bit in English but even when they didn't, I wasn't missing anything because I understand the joy that comes from these infrequent moments of impromptu fellowship.

Same Same but Different

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Variations on a Theme

Everyday when I get a motodupe from my house to go to the office we drive past the Wat. This is a busy place and the road leading out from there onto the main road is also somewhat steep. So we have a steep road packed with motos, and even worse -cars, who can't go anywhere. So needless to say it is difficult to inch uphill on an unstable moto. I am always very impressed with my moto drivers. Nonetheless, I still have a running montage in my head everyday at this time: "I'm going to die. I'm going to die. I'm going to die. I'm going to die."

However, sometimes there are variations on this.

"I'm going to die. I'm going to die...Is my moto driver singing again?"

"I"m going to die. I'm going...That's just a little truck, it couldn't kill me if it tried."

"I'm going to die. I'm going to die...Wait, is that a cart with cows? Actually they could kill me, very long horns."

"I'm going to die. Oops, I just hit that woman with my laundry."

"I'm going to die. AAAAHHHHH!!!! My knees are showing! That's even worse!"

Monday, March 30, 2009

Hilarious

Text message from a student who missed class:
"Dear teacher, i'm visal.sorry for being absent today because at the moment there was something happen on my mouse while i was eating mango.thank u in advance."

Just one of many problems we have in getting the students to come to class...

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Left standing in the dust

On Tuesday I rode moto-dupe out to RUA instead of driving with Christa. She doesn't teach till later so prefers to drive herself later and I don't mind to ride 'public transportation.' On this particular occasion I hailed a moto on the corner near the office, a guy we ride with not infrequently. He indicated that he knew where the university was and we set off after agreeing on a price. I am not quite sure why the moto-dupes don't like to take the way across the new bridge, but they don't. So we went the long way around, with no short-cuts. I was reminded how very grateful I am that I don't have to drive that way myself anymore, with the narrow road and the over-size trucks.

We made it safely along all the main roads however, and turned onto the smaller road leading straight to RUA. The only traffic on this road are the students and the cows. After a minute, my driver slowed and then stopped. He craned his neck around and examined something by my foot. Then we started slowly driving only to stop again. Once again he began looking at the bottom of his moto near my foot. I slid off so he could easier examine what the problem was. Suddenly, with no word of explanation to me, he took off. I watched him fly away, my mouth open with disbelief. The thoughts that started running through my head were something like these: "I haven't paid him yet, surely he'll come back." "It's a long walk to the gate and then that far again to the office." "The students will laugh at me walking." "I guess I'll start walking..." "Maybe I should take my helmet off now...NO, it's too hot." "I bet those guys sitting on the side of the road watching me with big smiles think this is really funny." "Ahh, here he comes back, what on earth is his problem?" I got back on the moto and we literally flew the rest of the distance to the office on campus. When I got off for real and paid him he tried to indicate to me that there was a problem with his kickstand dragging on the ground, which I could see. I still don't understand why that required driving away and leaving me somewhat stranded. Unsolved mysteries of life here.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

March Check-in for Team Meeting

Since I skipped, I mean was unavoidably absent from the last team meeting I have a little more variety to report in my check-in. The big highlights of the past few weeks were finishing final exam and having my parents come visit. Final exams went well and after drafting my parents to help me grade I had only 5 out of 103 students fail. I also discovered I have a student with very good attendance who is actually enrolled in a different class.
I used the break between semesters to travel with my parents, including a trip up to Siem Reap and a short jaunt down to Kep. They were eager to travel with me, as well as spend time in Phnom Penh seeing the places of my daily life. It's possible they got a little bored, but that's just another step in experiencing life here in Cambodia.
Starting second semester at RUA was a slow process with me begging the students to come to class and them refusing. They finally are starting to show up a week later. I've also been trying to ask each of my classes what specific skills or areas they want to focus on this semester. So I ended up with reverse syllabus burnout, where the students were telling me all the things I would have to teach this semester, instead of the teacher telling the students all the work they would turn in.

You know you're in Cambodia when...

When a large black bug dive bombs your face you don't really duck anymore, you just yell at it.

When a large black bug flies in your breakfast you pick it out and keep eating while it struggles in yogurt on your plate.

When the mouse is running around in the trash can, you scold him disapprovingly using his name.

When Nibbles boldly returns to said trash can, you scare him off by tossing a banana peel bigger than his whole body on top of him.

You beg your students to call you if they are going to cut class en masse by threatening to cry in the classroom by yourself.

You make lesson plans with no hope of actually accomplishing half of what you plan.

When driving moto the words "close," "almost," and "nearly" are completely irrelevant.

Going from outside to your upstairs bedroom involves a 20 degree temperature rise.

By the time you dry off from your shower you feel like you need another one.

Coming home after 8 at night is just pushing it too far.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Wishful Thinking

Admittedly I was probably expecting too much to think that second semester classes would start when we had scheduled. Showing up Monday morning I was spoiled by the presence of 9 students in my morning class (of 27) and was delighted to have a good conversation with them about the upcoming semester. Then in the afternoon class only one student wandered over to the dark and locked building to tell me that he and his friends (hopefully meaning his faculty) weren't studying again until 10 March. Oh,Ok. Both times I basically begged the students to come to class on Wednesday, especially after they informed me that Monday is a holiday for International Womens' Day. So now I'll be starting class a week and a half later than planned. I think it will be shortly interrupted later though by the rumored arrival of Hun Sen to dedicate the new auditorium. It doesn't look near completion to me, but whenever that is, I anticipate it will wipe out a week's worth of class. By that time it will be April and we all know that whole month is a write-off. We'll see how much teaching and/or learning actually gets done. I am looking forward to focusing more on areas the students tell me they want to learn, but for that they actually need to show up.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Vacation Again

In the middle of February RUA had its semester break. After administering exams I took off for some travel time with my parents! They came to visit for just under two weeks. It was a wonderful mixing of blessings for me as I got to travel, spend time with my parents and have two extra people to help me with my grading. :)

Our first trip was up to Siem Reap to see the temples of Angkor Wat. This fantastic area is the most famous part of Cambodian history and it was very easy to see why. The thought that these were all created and survived this long was quite a marvel in itself. The hotel room with air conditioning and hot water was also a marvel, but mostly just for me. We also had a lot of fun exploring the craft shops in the town of Siem Reap as well as spending time with an MCC family that is stationed up there.

After returning to Phnom Penh for one night we next headed off to the coastal town of Kep. We only spent one day there, mostly relaxing and eating a lot of seafood. Returning to Phnom Penh again my parents were faced with the reality that after 1, maybe 2 days there is literally nothing to do in this city. So they joined me in my regular activity of sitting around the office being bored.

Overall we all had to make adjustments for the heat. Them because they are coming from American winter (40-50F), and me because I was coming out of Cambodian winter (70-80F). We also had more than our fair share of traffic incidents which I think was unfortunate for such a short visit. I think my parents are probably now very concerned about me driving in city traffic. But I'm really ok with that because I'm concerned about me driving in city traffic.

Now I've finished my grading and have just a couple more days to enjoy being bored before teaching starts again on Monday. I have a feeling that second semester will fly by, especially with all the extensive vacations coming up. More travel to come!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Drawing Near

Today is the beginning of the end...of the semester. We will be grading students' speaking today and then the final written exam is next week Monday and Tuesday. I have no idea how to grade a speaking exam. And I am also becoming increasingly aware that these final exam grades are a reflection on my competence as a teacher, awesome.

Also a new thing learned for today: Having the thought "We're going to die" more than three times on the way to the MCC office in the morning is a less than optimal way to start the morning.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Almost....

My parents are coming in four days. It's crazy. And yes, I'm trying not to think about it too much, but even so it still doesn't seem that close. What does seem very close is the exam review and speaking evaluation I have to do this week. Then the final exams next week. And then the grading of everything after that. Those seem close because they are very tangible. They exist here in Cambodia. My parents do not yet exist in Cambodia. I think it might be a little strange when they do. Clash of Contexts.

This weekend was pretty busy with a couple dinners on Saturday and Sunday night. Although enjoyable, I think I need to work on my people skills in large groups of people I don't really know well. Or just remember not to move to Washington, DC anytime soon.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

This Week

On Monday morning my parents called and told me that my Grandpa died. Well, he was technically my step-grandpa, but the only one I'd ever known. I was pretty upset. But after the non-Super Bowl party that I was at at 6:30 in the morning I headed to school. Taking the day off was not an option because of how close it is to the end of the semester. Teaching was rough on Monday, but has been a little better since then. But the week has still been crazy with all the teachers trying to compile bits and pieces into a final exam. It is hard to prep students for a final exam when you haven't seen the thing yourself yet. So mostly I've been walking around half insane this week. If you're here in Cambodia with me, you've had fair warning... If you're not in Cambodia with me, wait until next week if you need coherent conversation. As you can see, this blog post is a good example of non-coherent communication on my part.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Correction

For a better (and much funnier) account of our time in Kep, please visit Christa's blog. http://fatherseyes86.blogspot.com/

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Vacation Time!

Chinese New Year is not an official Cambodian holiday. But would students think about coming to school during a non-official holiday??? Given that we were forewarned about this event, Christa and I officially canceled our classes Mon-Wed (maintaining a slight illusion of control). Feeling somewhat stressed, or just somewhat lazy, we decided a vacation at the beach was very much in order. So we headed out on Saturday morning and after a somewhat bumpy bus ride we arrived in Kep around lunch time. Kep is a sea-side resort town that was very popular before the Khmer Rogue time. Now there is a strange combination of new development and tourist-oriented projects along with ruins of old colonial style buildings.

Sadly there are no pictures for your enjoyment as both Christa and I forgot our cameras (also sunscreen, but that's a different matter). On Sunday we took the short boat trip out the the biggest nearby island and spent all day lazing on the beach and occasionally swimming. We also ate fresh crab and enjoyed the general hilarity that seems to be a part of our daily lives. On Monday we met up with Sothea, who works with us at RUA. We met his sister and her boyfriend and spent time at a nearby river which is a swimming area in the dry season. Overall there were a lot of people enjoying the holiday and the nice weather, as it wasn't as hot near the coast.

Now we're back in Phnom Penh spending our last "vacation" day preparing the final exam. I'm also trying desperately to figure out how to prepare my students in the scant time that remains.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

It was a short season

The cold season, or what there was of it, is definitely over. I have now returned to sweating while sitting still and looking for shade instinctively. It's getting lighter in the mornings, but only very slowly. Our early morning runs are still cool and dark, and at my new house I have to search around sometimes before I find a motodupe at that early time.

School is going ok, though time is winding down before the final exam. I realize this but the students don't seem to see it as clearly as I do. Taking almost this whole next week off for Chinese New Year is a nice break, but it means that there are only a few classes left in the semester. A donor conference involving most of the teachers on campus this past week meant that most of the students decided their holiday would start an extra day early and many of us were faced with empty classrooms, or two or three forlorn students.

My new host family situation is going fairly well, with still the occasional mis-understandings. Sometimes I feel that I am either being followed around constantly or ignored. I guess it is hard to have a middle ground when my vocabulary is focused around food and basic daily events. Last night I ate some strange candied fruit that though being deceptively coated in sugar, still managed to set my mouth on fire. I must say I am coming to somewhat appreciate the sour, hot and sweet tastes, and in various combinations, but it still is always a novelty.